Un weekend fou.

Yet another crazy weekend!

I guess I’ll start on Friday. I woke up bright and early in order to catch our bus to Nancy. As soon as I stepped outside, I was reminded of Seattle as it was pouring rain. Happy Thanksgiving indeed. We arrived in Nancy around 10:30 am and were greeted by even more rain. After a brief introduction to the city, we were given time to look around the Musee des Beaux Arts near the main square. By far the coolest part of the museum was a small room that looked fairly inconspicuous until you entered. When you enter (only one at a time), you walk into a room covered in mirrors. Each wall, the ceiling, and even the back of the door are all covered in mirrors. The floor is actually a pool of water and you stand on a small platform. Then there are lights that could easily just be fancy Christmas lights hanging from the ceiling, but the mirrors make it look like there are thousands of lights surrounding you. It was really incredible and vaguely trippy. By noon, we were starving and ready for our feast. Beth and Ron, our two directors, led us to a small restaurant where we joined the other Lewis & Clark students studying in Nancy. Our Thanksgiving meal was wonderful, complete with salad, potatoes, yams, turkey, chestnut stuffing, and pumpkin pie. Plenty of wine as well… it may be an American tradition, but we are still in France after all. I ate far too much and had a great time with everyone here. After lunch, Laura and Clio, two of the LC Nancy students took us to the Artist’s Café where we got tea and sat in a turkey-induced stupor until it was time to go home. When we returned to Strasbourg, everyone went to their respective homes and I spent a relaxed night catching up on some TV shows from home.

Saturday I slept in and finally rolled out of bed to meet Sarah and Clif downtown. It was officially the first day of the Christmas Market here and let me tell you, Christmas in Strasbourg is a big deal. It’s the oldest and biggest Christmas Market in France and one of my professors likes to refer to it as “Disneyland”. I can see what she was getting at… walking through the market is completely overwhelming. The German tourists come out in full force and you can barely move through the hoards of people. Every stand is lit up with lights and decorated as a small wood cabin. There are tons of food vendors that sell vin chaud (hot wine) and other traditionally Alsatian/German food, whereas the other stands sell tchockies or handmade gifts. Personally, the vin chaud wasn’t as amazing as I was hoping it would be, but I’m a big fan of the overpriced roasted chestnuts. I can’t see myself getting that many gifts for people, just as a lot of it is useless trinkets, but I think I’ll be stocking up on Alsatian cookies and candy. Merry Christmas, have some French candy… After the market, we met up with Mike and stopped in at Chez Christian for some hot chocolate. Later that night, I grabbed a bite to eat at a vendor and we met up again to see a choir/organ concert at the Cathedral. It sadly wasn’t the warm Christmas concert I was hoping for (I think Northwest Girlchoir has spoiled me for the rest of my life), but it was good regardless. We left early to grab drinks and meet up with the rest of the group. I have discovered my new favorite beer: Delirium. It comes from Belgium and I’m going to have to hunt it down when I get to Portland. The rest of the night was a wonderfully blurry time filled with taking silly pictures, good friends, and dancing at a club on a barge in Petit France. Jill and I managed to find our way back home after walking across all of downtown Strasbourg late at night. What a good night.

Sunday morning I managed to get out of bed in time to meet for a trip to the Maginot Line with the Institute where we study. As usual, I slept on the bus and when I woke up we were out in the middle of the Vosges next to a French fortification from World War Two to keep out the Germans. Crazy how that happens here. Anyway, we were given the option of getting the tour in either French or English and I, stupidly, opted for the French tour. I really wish I could tell you all what the Maginot Line did exactly, but unfortunately I have no idea what our tour guide said. He had the thickest Alsatian/mountain accent I have heard since being here. Even my professor Isabelle who was born in Alsace couldn’t understand what he was saying. The next two hours were spent wandering around the underground fortifications and laughing at how confused we were. It wasn’t exactly a cheery place, though. I can’t imagine having to live there… soldiers were three to a bed and one hundred to a shower. Many got serious depression from lack of exposure to the sun. Still interesting, though. After the tour, we piled onto the bus again and drove to a local village where we had some tarte flambée and wine. When I finally got home I had some work to do for classes, which has recently become a foreign concept. Homework? Studying? What? I’m sorry, je ne comprends pas.

Only three days until I take off for Scotland! Hurrah! Now I just need to figure out the French bank system in order to withdraw Pounds... huh.

Nancy's rainy main square...

Crazy cool light exhibit.

Sun in November? What is this?

Chez Christian... amazing hot chocolate.

Christmas market madness.

A group of us at a bar. From left to right -- Stephanie, Mike K., Corey, Sarah, Matt, et moi.

Maginot Line -- not the cheeriest place.

A plus tard!

How is it almost December?!

Joyeux Thanksgiving! It’s just another rainy day over here, but tomorrow we’re taking a day trip to Nancy to see the other LC kids and to have a big Thanksgiving lunch. I’m definitely sad I won’t be in Seattle this weekend, but at least I’ll be with good friends over here.

Life in Strasbourg is back to normal, or at least as normal as it ever was. I’ve stayed here for the past two weekends and I’ve somehow developed a social life here. My friends from Kalamazoo here are still amazing and I’ve even managed to make some international friends at school. Kaé, Tomomi, and Maiko are all from Japan and Carolina is from Guatemala. I know them through our language block and they’re all really cool. As much as I adore my American friends here, I’m excited to have more diversity in my social life.

Speaking of diversity, last Thursday night I attended a wine and cheese soirée put on by the Institute of French Studies where I study. There were surprisingly few Americans, which gave me a chance to branch out and talk to some other international students, not to mention my two rather tipsy professors. When the soirée ended, I went out to a bar with a group of Canadians, a New Zealander, and an Australian. After that I went and met up with Kaé, Tomomi, and Maiko at a dance club. I wish I could have taken advantage of my first French dance club, but I was a little too sober and surrounded by chic French girls. So I opted to catch the last tram home at 12:15, but I was still pretty proud of myself for such a diverse night.

The wine and cheese night also involved what was maybe one of the best interactions I’ve had in Strasbourg yet. At one point, a fairly drunk Turkish guy started talking to a group of us and trying to guess our nationalities. After loudly declaring that he can’t speak French at all and incorrectly guessing that the Japanese girls were Chinese, he looked at me:
Turkish guy: Spain!
Me: Nope. The United States.
Turkish guy: You are American? I don’t like America! Your politics are not good. You ignore everyone else! All Americans think they’re the center of the universe! But I am surprised you are American, you don’t seem like that. I mean, you are just standing there and you just seem normal. You must be from, like, Seattle or something!
Me: Uh, yeah… I am from Seattle!
At this point everyone sort of laughed out of disbelief. It’s not as funny when I write it down, but it was just such a strange, random coincidence. One of his friends, a Polish woman, kept apologizing for him, but I thought it was hilarious.

It’s weird being from the States over here because you either get a really positive or really negative reaction. People are either thrilled to meet an American (I once got a rousing “I love the United States!” from a tipsy French girl) or want to tell me everything that we’ve done wrong as a country. Most of the time I agree with them, but that doesn’t always make it easier to tolerate. It’s hard to hear people constantly bash your country, especially if they have problems with the society as well as the politics. I know we have issues, but everyone does. Just living in France has shown me that. Anyway, I’ve actually ended up having a little bit of pride towards the US, which feels very strange. I’m sure that will all go away once I return to the States and have reverse culture shock. Not really looking forward to that.

Other than that, life has been pretty low-key. I’ve been shopping a lot, mostly in an attempt to stock up on sweaters. It is cold here and all I can say is that I will have an impressive collection of sweaters and scarves when I return. Retail therapy works wonders, who knew? I also have discovered what may be one of my favorite places in Strasbourg – Chez Christian. It is a little restaurant near the Cathedral that is incredibly girly, complete with fuchsia and maroon walls, and serves amazing hot chocolate. I have daydreams about spending hours there just drinking hot chocolate and reading.

Next weekend, I’m flying to Scotland to visit Merit, who goes to school at St. Andrews. It’s kind of insane, I know, to fly up to Scotland for the weekend, but… well, why not? Stay tuned…

La Turquie et La Grèce!!

I don’t really know where to start. I guess I should apologize for this insanely long post. It was a crazy whirlwind of a week… I guess I’ll pick up where I left off last Sunday.

After writing and sleeping for a few hours, we woke up and went to dinner with some of the other students from the Greece program who were also in Istanbul. After dinner we went to a hookah bar next-door where we sat on pillows outside and were able to people-watch. We were all ready for a low-key night so eventually Carolyn, Maddie, and I went back to the hostel, watched Music & Lyrics (a horrible movie by the way), and went to bed.

Monday morning we woke up, grabbed breakfast at the hostel, and walked to Topkapi Palace, which was the official and primary Istanbul residence of the Ottoman Sultans from 1465 to 1853. The best part of the palace was the definitely elaborate Harem where the Sultan’s concubines lived, though there were several rooms filled with jewels from the Sultans that were also pretty amazing.
As we were leaving the palace, the sky looked stormy so we decided to go home. We stopped at a local restaurant for lunch and then some of us (me) took naps. When I woke up, Clariece and I decided to grab tea down the street. We chose a restaurant that was playing the Amélie soundtrack, which made me feel very at home. We went back to the hostel and decided to go to Taksim, a neighborhood across the city, for Turkey’s independence celebration that night. We sadly missed the fireworks as we were meeting Charles, another student from the Greece program, and his friend from home. Nevertheless, a group of us set out trying to find Taksim. We took the tram to what we previously thought was Asia, but turns out is actually just another part of Europe. We got off a stop too early and ended up walking up and down several hills. It was nice to see some other neighborhoods in Istanbul that weren’t as touristy, but it was pretty strange at times as there were literally no women outside. It was definitely an adventure. Finally we got to the correct tram stop, walked up another hill, and found Taksim. Taksim seems to be one of the bigger shopping areas. There were tons of people just wandering around and definitely not as many tourists. It was pretty overwhelming, actually. We found Taksim Square at the end of the street, which was mostly dead after the celebration earlier. At some point we realized we hadn’t had dinner so Chris, Clairece and I decided to stop in a restaurant on one of the side streets. Finally after such a long night, we took the tram back and went to bed.

Tuesday we had a lazy morning and then walked to the ferry terminal to buy tickets for Wednesday’s travel. The walk was along a nice trail on the waterfront and was actually quite beautiful. We took a taxi back up to the Grand Bazaar, where we got a cheap lunch of lahmacun. It’s like cheese-less Turkish pizza with more meat. Yum. Tuesday was definitely the day for shopping so several of us wandered around the Bazaar finding random presents for people. I successfully haggled with several vendors, something I’m quite proud of. The Turkish vendors continued to be hilarious with their obscure cultural references. At least two vendors called me “Spice Girl” and several others commented on my looks. I know they’re just doing business, but a girl could get used to so many random compliments, hehe.
After the Grand Bazaar, Clariece, Chris and I decided to find the Egyptian Spice Bazaar. We ended up probably taking the worst path possible and walking through what seemed like Istanbul’s textile district. Each street was impossibly crowded. Every once and a while, a car would try to get through the throng and take five minutes to go one block. It was definitely a sensory overload, but also great to see some of real life in Istanbul. After asking at least five people for directions, we found the Spice Bazaar and were greeted with heaps of spices on tables and in bins. It was wonderful just to see and smell. The Spice Bazaar itself was a lot smaller than the Grand Bazaar so after a while we took the tram back to our hostel, where we met Maddie and Carolyn at the hookah bar. Maddie, Clariece, and I had made plans to go to the Turkish bath that night so we set out on our own little adventure.
The Turkish bath deserves a paragraph of its own. It was incredible. We walked in and were greeted by friendly Turks who ushered us into a changing room. We each changed into only a towel, then were moved to a sauna/bath room where we removed out towels (it was a single-sex room) and had hot water to pour on ourselves. So the three of us sat and talked long enough for all of the dead skin to appear, which I guess is the point. Eventually an older woman came in and gestured for me to follow her. Normally I think I would be a lot more self-conscious, but she was extremely professional and I barely felt uncomfortable. She took me into a smaller room and had me lay on a marble table. She then scrubbed off all of the dead skin, washed it off, and applied the most amazing body wash that felt like pure velvet. The most incredible aspect of the entire experience was that she sang most of the time and her voice was incredibly beautiful. Most of her songs were in Turkish and incredibly relaxing. Every time I felt myself tense, she would start singing again and I would feel calm again. When she was finished, she led me back to the lobby where I was served hot apple tea and met up with Maddie and Clariece. It was such a wonderful experience. Just a side note, Turkish apple tea is amazing. I highly recommend it if you ever get the chance to taste it. All clean and soft, the three of us went back and met up with Chris. We went to a restaurant nearby and then packed up for our early-morning voyage the next day.

Wednesday morning we were up in time to catch a 7 a.m. ferry from Istanbul to Banderma with most of the other Greece students. From there we hopped a four-hour bus through the middle-of-nowhere Turkey to Ayvalik, a port city across the water from Lesvos, Greece. The original plan was to take the ferry on Thursday, but we actually managed to get onto the Wednesday ferry and arrived in Lesvos one day early, after more than 12 hours in transit. So most of the Greece program ended up back at Hotel Votsala, the amazing hotel that the program was at for the past month, and they even made us a dinner. Clariece showed me around and I was thrilled to see where they had been living for a month. We were all exhausted after the long day of travel, so Maddie, Chris, Clariece and I settled in and watched Pirates of the Caribbean III and drank some rum in celebration. Not a bad Halloween, if I say so myself.

Thursday was my first official day in Greece! I woke up early and sat on Maddie’s balcony with a gorgeous view of the sea. All of the students insisted that it was chilly there, but compared to dreary Strasbourg, this was a tropical paradise. Not bad for November. We got breakfast and then took a bus into Mytilini, the biggest town on the island. Greece is a lot different than Turkey, but still really great. Life seems to be even slower than in France, if that’s possible. Also, the islands seem to have some special sort of light surrounding it. The air just seems clearer and there’s so much color everywhere. It’s gorgeous. Clariece and Chris showed me their usual haunts, such as the House of Tea where we got tasty hot cocoa and a local gyro place. The three of us took the bus back to Hotel Votsala, where we broke open some local wine. Eventually we met up with some of the other students at a nearby taverna and I had my first real Greek dining experience. Greek food? Amazing. Delicious. It’s also easy to eat way too much. Way too full to do much else, Clariece and I went back and talked for several hours before going to bed.

Friday morning we packed up all of our stuff and left Hotel Votsala. We took what was possibly the craziest taxi ride I’ve ever been on to the airport. Our taxi driver took what seemed like the smallest winding streets through Mytilini that probably exist. After that, I wasn’t really worried about the possibly sketchy flight to Crete… until I saw the plane. Our flight from Mitilini, Lesvos to Heraklion, Crete was aboard the smallest plane I’ve ever been on. There were seventeen passengers, one stewardess, and two pilots. If you know me at all, you know that I’m not the biggest fan of flying, especially in small planes. Well, this was definitely a test. Maddie was amazing and let me hold her hand for take-off and some of landing. Luckily the flight was only about an hour, but still. It was terrifying. Hopefully I won’t have to repeat that experience for a while.
We arrived in Heraklion, Crete having no idea where we were staying. A woman at the airport information desk gave us the name of us a local youth hostel and off we went. We checked in, dropped our stuff off, and went out to explore Heraklion. I’ve really enjoyed this trip because everywhere I’ve gone has been different. For instance, Heraklion is still really different from Mitilini, though they’re both in Greece. Heraklion seems much more touristy, despite it being the off-season. We found a small market while wandering, got some coffee, and then gyros (my new favorite food) and beer. I’ve made it my duty to try the different kinds of beer in each country. In Turkey it was Efes and here it is either Alfa or Mythos. So far none of them have really compared to German or Alsatian beer, but I’m probably biased.

Saturday was our last full day in Crete so we got up bright and early to catch the bus to Knossos, the ceremonial and political center of the Minoan civilization back in the day. I suppose it’s only fitting that as I was with three people on an Ancient Studies program I should go to at least one archaeological site in Greece. I enjoyed it, though I really had no idea what I was looking at. All the significance was definitely lost on me, which is probably too bad. The scenery around the site was gorgeous, though, and at least I could fully appreciate that. After Knossos, we decided to go to the Crete Aquarium. I know, I know, going to an aquarium when you’re in Greece. It sounds lame, but it was actually really fun and each of us loves aquariums. It ended up being at least 20 kilometers away by bus, which made getting there an adventure in itself. We goofed around there for a while and then made our way back to Heraklion. Chris, Clariece, and I tried to find a local bazaar, but weren’t successful. We then parted ways and I had my first few moments alone in what seemed like forever. I love my friends, but I almost wish I could have explored more on my own. Just those few minutes walking through some side streets alone were wonderful. That night we wandered around in search of a restaurant to eat at and instead found Rianna, another student on the Greece program, and her boyfriend Mitch. We all went out for way-too-expensive drinks (Tequila Sunrise is my new favorite) at a fancy bar and the four of us ate gyros for dinner. After another drink at another bar and talking for several hours, I was ready to go back to our hostel and pack.

Sunday morning was rather uneventful. We checked out of the hostel and, as everything else in Greece is closed on Sunday mornings, we ate at the local Starbucks. I sadly said goodbye to Maddie, Clariece, and Chris and took a taxi to the airport. I had several uneventful flights to Frankfurt and caught the Lufthansa bus back to Strasbourg.

Now it’s back to life as usual. This week we have midterms and yesterday I gave a thoroughly embarrassing presentation on rugby in France. I’ve started planning even more trips now that I have two months of free weekends ahead of me. Back to my normal self, I’d say.

And now, pictures!
The view from the top of the Orient Hostel in Istanbul.

Clariece at a very Portland-esque cafe... in Istanbul.

Hagia Sophia. Amazing.
The Imperial Gate of the Hagia Sophia... and me next to it, for perspective.

Obligatory tourist shot from the Palace.

Blue Mosque lit up on their independance day. I wish I spoke Turkish.

Outside the Grand Bazaar.

Lovely friends! Clariece, Chris, Carolyn, and Maddie.

Heaps of spices at the Spice Bazaar.

View from Maddie's room at Hotel Votsala (Lesbos, Greece).

Mytilini, Lesbos.
More Mytilini.
Knossos on Crete.

More Knossos.

And that's about it for now! I'm off to plan a trip to Scotland. Au revoir...